3 Skincare Mistakes I Wish I Would Have Known About 5 Years Ago

On the topic of all things skincare, it would be reckless to not address the seemingly innocent but sizeable mistakes that I have had the unfortunate opportunity to learn from in the past 5 years... Now listen, I don't make the rules here or anything, but skincare sins are a real thing.

I am going to lay out 3 of the biggest mistakes I have made in my own skincare journey in hopes that my findings will be educational, relatable, or if at the very least, entertaining.

1. Stop Sun Bathing

If you know me, this most likely comes as no surprise. I have to admit that growing up I was nothing short of a 2009 Paris Hilton wannabe. If I had free time within the months of July and August (Canadian problems) then you could most certainly find me outside with no trace of SPF... and baby oil in hand! It's unfortunate, but true.

(An innocent beginning to my farmer tans and scrunchies obsession)

And as much as I love re-living regretful memories (trust me, there is more to come), I have to give credit to the version of myself that has become knowledgable and passionate about skin health and the importance of sun protection.

If you're reading this and you're not yet convinced about how harmful the sun can be, allow me to try my best to shed some light on the subject.

• Sun exposure is understood to be responsible for roughly 90% of the appearance of aging in the skin (if this isn't reason enough to toss out the baby oil and tanning goggles, allow me to keep going...)

• 1 in 5 people will develop skin cancer in their lifetime

• In regard to UV beds, the FDA claims that indoor tanning can increase the chances of getting melanoma by up to 75%

In attempt to not sound like a broken record, I am going to cut this rant off right here. I hope my argument has been persuasive enough to get you purchasing multiple bottles of sunscreen to keep in every purse you own, wearing long sleeved tops to your next beach day, and gloves to keep in the middle console of your car for those days that your hands feels like they're melting from the sun shining through the windshield. I'm kidding- mostly... But in all honesty, there is nothing kinder you can do for yourself than showing yourself proper protection. If there is one thing I've learned, it is that SPF is the best anti-aging product on the market!

2. Just Because It Hurts, It Does Not Always Mean That It Works

Okay, I think we are all somewhat guilty of finding pleasure in a slight burning sensation after using a product that promises to clear acne for good! After all, that burn means that the acne is getting destroyed, right? WRONG! Often times what actually is happening is the skin is simply becoming irritated and more compromised, leading to (yes, you guessed it) more acne.

However, just to make things even more fun and confusing, there are a lot of ingredients out there that can sting a bit but are amazing for the skin! For example, Vitamin A (retinoids), AHA's/BHA's (salicylic, glycolic, lactic), enzymes, etc. So how can we tell the difference between good and bad? Harsh products will often times burn for longer than 15-30 seconds on a daily basis; whereas, effective products typically have sensation for a few seconds and on a more intermittent basis.

Another thing to look out for is how the skin is responding to such products. If you are seeing dry patches/overall consistent dryness, persistent redness, inflamed acne, peeling, the product you are using may be causing more harm than good. If a product is formulated with ingredients that make it possible for a sting and yet the skin continues to stay calm, hydrated, and normalized, then you can be confident that the stinging feeling is not compromising the skin. Keep in mind that the first time you expose yourself to a new ingredient such as, Vitamin A, the skin can go through a period of sensitivity and dryness and still be working for the greater good. I always recommend working alongside your skin care therapist when adding in new products to ensure that your skin is getting the best possible care!

One last thing I wanted to note is that you should be cautious as to what ingredients are creating inflammation within your skin, as everyone is so different. For example, scents and certain alcohols within skincare can create inflammation and sensitivity for some.

3. Exfoliation Is Not One Size Fits All

Exfoliation, although necessary and amazing, can in fact be over done and create chaos for your skin (trust me, I've been there). I think where a lot of people go wrong is overdoing it and exposing the skin barrier so that it can not function properly. In doing so, your skin feels incredibly soft at first because, duh, you have scrubbed your face raw... However, as time goes on, over exfoliation can lead to chronic inflammation and thinning of the skin. The trick is to come from a gentle approach that will not only clean up dead skin cells, but also promote hydration from within the skin and lead to more healthy stimulation.

On the flip side, not exfoliating enough can also wreak havoc on the skin (ugh, I know). This can look like a build up of dead skin cells leading to congested pores, dullness, dryness, milia, acne, etc.

So what do we do? In order to find that balance we need to of course be using the correct types of exfoliants! This makes all the difference, folks.

My preference is chemical exfoliants (AHA's/BHA's). I love them because they are gentle on the surface of the skin whilst providing many other benefits. For example, salicylic acid (BHA) is not only going to act as a chemical exfoliant for dead skin, but also works the most effectively to unplug pores and fight acne. Work with your skin care therapist to find the correct product for your specific skin type!

I usually recommend starting out 2-3 times per week as a newbie to chemical exfoliants, and building up to every day (this can take time and there is no need to rush it). Keep in mind that if you are also incorporating a retinol (which you should but we can talk about that later), then you need to be even more mindful of how your skin is reacting to a new form of exfoliation.

As far as physical exfoliants go (think sugar textured scrub), there is a time and a place. It is more rare for me to recommend my clients a physical form of exfoliation as they can be harsh and stripping on the skin. That being said, there are a few physical exfoliants that I have found to be effective yet gentle so I do not completely write them off. Again, the tolerance will vary person to person. For example, someone with moderate active acne should steer clear of a physical exfoliant (image all that bacteria bursting from within and spreading under the skin because of the rough mechanical pressure). An older skin type, however, may be able to easily tolerate physical exfoliation and see the benefits of the stimulation and blood flow that it can promote.

Overall, it doesn't hurt to educate yourself on what may work for you personally by seeking the advice of a trained professional who can take the time to analyze your skin.

Alright team, we made it to the end of the 3 skincare mistakes that I wish I would have known about 5 years ago. I commend you for sticking with me and I hope that the information I provided will be of value to you moving forward. If you have any questions please reach out to me! I would love to chat with each and every one of you.

x,

Sarah

Product Recommendations

IMAGE SPF

A beautiful medical grade, lightweight, no cast, mineral based SPF (30+ or 50+). It is formulated to double as a hydrating daily moisturizer.

Hot Tip: Comes in a tinted version as well that I use nearly every single day. I mix 50/50 of the daily ultimate 50+ and the tinted SPF for a gorgeous glowy and natural finish.

IMAGE ACNE TREATMENT PADS

A personal favourite, can't live without, treatment pad! With a blend of salicylic and glycolic acid (BHA and AHA) these pads are great for chemical exfoliation and congestion! A client favourite as well.

Hot Tip: Cut the pads in half to lower the dosage if you are not experiencing much congestion and use more so for daily exfoliation.

ENVIRON AVST STEP UP SYSTEM

This is my "trapped on an island can only bring 1 skincare item with me to use for the rest of my life" product... It is that good. Seriously... But why? The step up system is formulate with vitamins A, C and E, along with so many other peptides and antioxidants (forget the 10+ step skincare routine that no one has time for). I love the simplicity of Environ in the sense that 1 bottle can have all of the ingredients to drive effective and long lasting results. As well as this, I love that you can start on level 1 and build up, start low and go slow. So often I have clients tell me that they have used retinol products in the past but gave up after just a few weeks because the skin has become intensely irritated (retinol reaction). This is why I recommend utilizing the Environ AVST step up system to get your skin adjusted as you build up your tolerance to vitamin A, which is the cornerstone ingredient to overall skin health. Such a game changer!

Hot Tip: If you are still worried about experiencing a reaction from using this, start with every other day or a few times a week and slowly build up to morning and night usage.